| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: RV Generator frequency question
Deen - got me there!!! Seems I never heard of a Kipor... Guess an Onan book would not do the poor guy a whole lot of good, would it?! I sure hope he can FIND a Kipor dealer!
|
nbounder
|
10/06/08 06:05pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: NOW I'VE DONE IT!!!!
For thread loosening, I have found nothing superior to Kroil. ACE Lubee is durn good too. WD is useless, in my expeience.
|
nbounder
|
10/05/08 09:22pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Atwood water heater
Above (kgmz) is excellent advice. Mine (1995) did the exact same thing,and a new Dinosaur board fixed it right up. I know, its hard to part with $100 for a board when you're not sure it's dead, but at it's age, it may have no more life left. If it has all the proper inputs, and dosen't do its thing, it's replacement time. Get the board at R&G electrospec. Writw back with your findings.
|
nbounder
|
10/05/08 09:12pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Furnace ID Suburban
Good ol' Suburban - their furnaces LOVE to get fixed. The newer units will try to ignite 3X then lock out. Mine, an oldie, ignits for 2-3 seconds then shuts down. Either the flame sensor is way out of place, or the control board has bit the dust. Bein' as I have not taken it out and made love to it for 4 months, I need to do so. It will then work for 6-10 weeks, and unceremoniously*krap*out again.
|
nbounder
|
10/05/08 09:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: RV Generator frequency question
You might try buying a service manual from your local neighborhood Onan/Cummins dealer. Mine set me back $18.00, and I got that back on the first fix. I also found that the local tech is your tech supoort guy - they do not have factory tech support. In my humble opinion (as a former tech support guy) you DO get better help from a guy with dirt under his fingernails.
|
nbounder
|
10/05/08 08:52pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Help wiring back up cam
Rob - funny you should propose such a method. That's 'zactly what I did when adding a light. It just looks tacky and appears amateur-ish. I wonder what the 'experts' at the RV shops do?
|
nbounder
|
10/04/08 09:59pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Help wiring back up cam
Question on an associated topic - how in the heck does one run wiring for a camera (or whatever) through the coach? It seems unrealistic to try and snake anything vertically - has anyone done this?
|
nbounder
|
10/01/08 08:55pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 900 Watt Generator...What can I run with it?
I guess I missed where he said 900W 'peak'. All I saw was 900 watt generator.
I would think the best use would be to run an 800 watt coffee pot for morning coffee. Next, re-charge the batts, as mentioned above.
|
nbounder
|
10/01/08 08:49pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Generator running while on shore power. Is this ok?
Your biggest issue is saftey. One needs to block/cover ALL places where a three year old can, say, close a slide, or re-set a thermostat, or screw with the hydraulic jacks, etc etc. Kid-proofing is your most important task. Most RVs are not kid-proofed in any way shape or form.
|
nbounder
|
10/01/08 08:40pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Dual Pane Windows
Some time back, I remember someone had actually drilled a hole thru the windows, then did some magic (probably involving alcohol) and everything cleaned up. I now have a 65000rpm grinder, and all I need is a 1/8 carbide bit to try it myself. Has anyone ever tried this?
|
nbounder
|
10/01/08 01:17pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Burning out bulbs
The bulb is likely getting too hot. The heat from normal operation should flow thru the socket and dissipate within the fixture, and this is obviously not happening. Check that the hardware holding the socket to the fixture is secure, and the socket dosen't float around. In many cases, the plastic fixture is part of the thermal flow, and both socket mounting areas should be equally warm after some time operating. If the errant bulb socket area isnt getting as warm as the other bulb mounting area, thats a hint.
|
nbounder
|
10/01/08 01:13pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Atwood water heater, NO SPARK AND NO GAS
Given that the contacts are clean, get (from Atwood site, I think) a wiring diagram. If you find that the inputs to the control module are there and the output is not, go to RG-electrospec.com. They are very accurate and will sell you a Dinosoar board only if you need one for an excellent price - and get the cover while you're at it. Notice that the control module is mounted directly over the burner flame - I suspect this is why the modules go bad, but - that's only my humble opinion.
|
nbounder
|
09/29/08 09:06am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Hot Water Heater Problems?
Sure sounds like you're getting no ignition spark. You'ld hear it if it occurs. This is under control of the control module, and, NO, $150 is not a fair price. Contact RG-electrospec.com for verification, and if needed, buy a Dinasaur board from them, with the cover. Can't go wrong there! I gave about $105 for mine.
|
nbounder
|
09/28/08 08:42pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Restricting Current Into a Heater?
The consesus is that its cheaper to buy a dual power heater than to fiddle with any of the other (some questionable) ideas. Yes, you can get a dimmer that will supply high power levels. It has a large heatsink and gets hot and is used mainly in theaters. Is there an objection to using a 'dual-speed' heater?
|
nbounder
|
09/19/08 08:46pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: ONAN winter/summer door???
Ok fellas - adjacent to this winter/summer switch, there is a wire connected to what appears to be an internal heater (just a guess) Since I disconected it, the unit starts twice as fast. Anyone know what it really is?
|
nbounder
|
09/19/08 09:12am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Help me understand tech speak
Well, consider yourself lucky. I bought two NAPA coach batts, as NAPA was the only store open . They work well, but I went to the NAPA website and asked for the full specs. Got ignored. Twice. Called the store. They are clueless. Please tell me where you got the specs. I understand Exide makes most of NAPAs batteries. I'd like a NAPA chart for reference.
|
nbounder
|
09/18/08 09:33pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: How to remove light/switch cover
Funny thing about this post - I had the same prob, although in my case the switch was failing. I called Dometic, and he pointed me to a screw, barely visible, at the top of the area where the bulb is mounted. Couldn't see it (w/o a mirror) but it CAN be felt. Once I removed same, everything was accessable. As the replacement switch costs $16 + shipping. did a thorough cleaning with contact cleaner and compressed air, and . . so far so good.
|
nbounder
|
09/18/08 09:23pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Using RV generator for house power during power outage
When I wired my house, I added 2 totally separate circuits, not attached anywhere near the service panel. These circuits go to outlets marked GEN. They are always dead, EXCEPT - when the power fails, I start the generator and plug in the two plugs which energize the GEN outlets. I then move the fridge, WH, furnace, and some lamp plugs to the GEN outlets, and everything hums. There is NO connection between the GEN outlets and the 'normal' AC power feed . It is 100% safe, and can be left connected even after the power is restored.
SEE - there IS a way to do it safely.
|
nbounder
|
09/17/08 09:59pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: '04 Fleetwood Southwind House Batteries
Just to ad one thing to Brian's able answer . . . .they also are HEAVY!!
PS- take a voltmeter and check across the posts to verify 6V vs. 12V
|
nbounder
|
09/17/08 09:37pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Check pressure Relief valve ??
One small addition - when you test it manually, close it while water is flowing. The rinse action will tend to clean off any embedded debris on the shut-off seal.
|
nbounder
|
09/17/08 08:41pm |
Tech Issues
|
